Day 12

We woke to a layer of wet snow and low cloud making our route through a steep sided valley very atmospheric but also the wettest day we have ever experienced while trekking in this part of the world.

The track contoured high above the river, undulating and winding its way across gullies, landslides and shoulders, before climbing steadily to a pass at about 3370m. Total concentration was needed for the entire day as one lapse in judgement of a foot placement would result in a serious fall. Referred to as the ‘mad monkey trail’, this track is largely used for trekking as villagers such as those in Thudam find it easier to travel to Tibet to buy and sell products. Government funding in recent years has opened up the route which is somewhat overgrown in places and provides a precarious balcony above the Modek Cheheju Khola.

The improbable path eventually became less precipitous and we continued to descend whereupon the vegetation became more tropical. At around 2800m we heard the rasp of cicadas as if they were suddenly switched on and soon we came to our camp in a small Yak Kharka at 2700m. The weather pattern has changed and thwarted any further views of Makalu and we were all thankful of the clear skies we had around the pass days. The question as to whether we would recommend the Lumbasumba pass trek to friends came up in the evening and there was a clear consensus that, given there are only one or two days when mountain views are possible, it would only be promoted to those returning to Nepal with few places left to visit!

Distance 14km 8hrs